Adapted from a package written by Karen deBoer, Lisa Hrico &
Barbara Malone,
of the Chow Welfare League of NPD Inc.
Not long ago, you were thrilled to have a puppy of your very own. You never dreamed you'd have to give him up someday. Your dog still depends on you to do what's best for him, just like he depended on you when he was a puppy. Now, more than ever, he needs you to take time to think things through and make the right choices for his future.
Purebred Rescue helps to find new homes for dogs. Rescuers are unpaid volunteers with full-time jobs and families to care for. They usually don't have kennel facilities nor do they receive financial help from the government. The cost to care for rescued dogs comes out of their own pockets. They work primarily with dogs from animal shelters that need help immediately. Because there are so many of these dogs already, Purebred Rescue may not be able to take yours for you. Purebred Rescue is meant to be a last resort - a place to go when there's no where else to turn.
Your dog is your responsibility. Most of the work involved finding him a new, loving, permanent home is up to you. If your dog came from a private breeder or individual, contact that person immediately. Although he may not choose to help you, he has a moral obligation to do so. An ethical, responsible breeder/fancier will -want- to help you and has a right to know what will happen to the dog he or she brought into the world.
Finding a new home won't be quick or easy. It will take patience and hard work. This booklet will help you decide what's best for your dog, how to prepare him for adoption and how to choose the right owner for him. Finding a new home involves several steps, but before you start, there are some tips.
About Animal Shelters
Shelters and humane societies were created to take care of the needs of stray and abused animals. They weren't intended to be a dumping grounds for people whose pets are no longer convenient, but that's what they've become.
Shelters today are so over-crowded that many dogs are destroyed the same day they arrive. By law, strays must be kept several days for their owners to reclaim them. Dogs turned in by their owners aren't protected by these laws. Only 1 in 10 animals that enter a shelter will come out alive. Shelters don't want to kill all these animals but they have no choice. For every child born today, there will be 15 puppies and 45 kittens born as well. There are just not enough homes for all of these animals. Being purebred won't help a dog's chances of adoption - 40% of the dogs in shelters are purebreds. Because of the dog's unique temperament and the many misconceptions about them, many shelters refuse to offer dogs for adoption at all. Some shelters won't release them to Rescue groups either. Sending your dog to a shelter in hopes that he'll find a good home is wishful thinking and you could be signing your dog's death warrant.
Step one: Soul Searching
There's a big difference between being forced to give up your dog and wanting to "get rid of him." Search your heart for the real reason why your dog can no longer live with you. Your answer will probably fall into one of two categories: People Problems or Dog Problems.
People Problems include moving, death of an owner, divorce, a new baby, allergies, etc. With some planning and forethought, People Problems don't always mean having to give up your dog. It is possible to find a rental home or apartment that allows pets, to raise kids and dogs together, to control allergies with medication, etc. If you're not sure whether you've considered all your options, call us. We may be able to give you ideas or send information that may help you keep your dog. Sometimes you can make temporary living arrangements for your dog that will buy you both a little time to find alternatives.
Dog Problems include aggression, house-soiling, destructiveness, barking, fighting, bad manners or other undesirable behavior. If you got your dog as a puppy, you must accept the fact that you are least partly responsible for the way your dog acts now. Any owner whose dog has a behavior problem always has four options:
Most behavior problems can be solved if you're willing to make the effort. Don't make the mistake of trading this dog in for another one that you think will be easier to work with. If you didn't train this one properly, you won't train the next one either. If you'd keep your dog if only he'd behave better, call us. We can provide training advice, reading material and refer you to qualified trainers to help you with your dog's problems.
Step two: Temperament Evaluation
Your dog's adoption potential depends mostly on his temperament. Some dogs are primarily one-family dogs that don't adjust quickly to new situations. They're slow to make new friends, are protective and leery of strangers. True dog-lovers cherish these traits but many other people don't understand them. You have to be realistic about your dog's personality and needs.
The ideal new owner has had your breed before and is familiar with its temperament but these homes are few and far between. The majority of people who'll be interested in your dog have never owned one before and their Impression of the breed is based on a picture they saw in a book. They want a dog that will approach them happily with a wagging tail. When you love your dog, it's easy to think that everyone else will love him, too. Look at your dog as If you've never seen him before. If you were meeting him for the first time, what kind of impression would he make? Would -you- want to adopt him?
If you dog has ever bitten someone ...
If your dog is aggressive with people, has a bite record or is a canine. terrorist and you don't want to live with him - don't expect anyone else to, either. The legal liabilities that could result if your dog injures someone in his new home could cause your to lose home and everything else you own. Nearly every state has 'dangerous dog' laws. In most states, any dog that has bitten (whether or not it was his fault) Is considered to be a 'dangerous dog'. In some states, It's illegal to sell or give away a dangerous dog. In any, state, you're required to tell the new owners about the dog's history. Laws about dangerous dogs require special confinement and mandatory liability insurance.
If you're not willing to hire a trainer who specializes In aggression problems, take your dog to the veterinarian and have him humanely put to sleep. Don't 'place him as a 'guard dog' or take him to a shelter where he can endanger other and spend his last days In confusion and fear. Every year, we get calls about dogs that were beaten senseless by people - complete with broken bones and missing eyes - for having bitten someone.
Putting a biting dog to sleep is the safest and kindest thing to do. It's the -right- thing to do.
Step three: Preparing your dog for adoption
Having decided that your dog really must have a new home and that his temperament is suitable for a new owner, take him to a veterinarian for a complete check up and any necessary vaccinations. Be sure to tell the vet about any behavior problems so he can rule out any physical causes. Some behavior problems are caused by easily-treatable health conditions. For example, house-soiling can be caused by worms, urinary infections or diabetes. There may be other medical causes as well. Bring all vaccinations up to date, not just rabies. Your dog should also have a heartworm check and a stool check for worms.
If your dog has not been spayed or neutered, do it now! Placing your dog intact could put his life and well-being in serious jeopardy. No reputable breeder would be caught dead adding your dog to a breeding program unless It came from a well-known dog fancier in the first place. The only kind of "breeder" who'll be interested in your dog will be a puppymill. Wholesale dog brokers seek out cheap or free intact purebreds for resale to puppymills or research laboratories. Watch out, too, for private owners looking for a mate for their own dogs. Spaying or neutering -guarantees- that your dog will not end up in a puppymill or in the hands of a "backyard breeder". It's the best way to insure that your dog will be adopted by a family who wants him only as a best friend and member of the family. Give your dog a brighter future - make the appointment today!!
Groom your dog! Get rid of all those mats and tangles and give him a bath, in that order. Make sure he's neatly trimmed. If you can't do these things yourself, take him to a groomer. Get rid of his old rusty choke chain and buy a nice, new, strong collar and lead. You want your dog to look beautiful and make a good Impression on prospective adopters. Make sure he's clean and well-dressed! Fill out our "evaluation questionnaire". Be honest. You'll be giving this to the new owners.
Step four: Writing an ad
There's a trick to writing a good ad that will generate interest while not misrepresenting the dog and also do some preliminary screening for you. At the very least, the ad needs to give a concise description of your dog, his needs, your requirements for a home and of course, your phone number.
The description should include his breed, color, sex, the fact that he's neutered (you -did- do that. didn't you?) and an indication of his age. Hints: if your dog is under a year and a half, state his age in months so he'll be perceived as the young dog he is. If he's over three, just say that he's an 'adult'. Many people wrongly believe that an older dog won't adjust to a new owner. If your dog was bred and raised properly, this isn't true. There are definite advantages to an older dog (what you see is what you, they don't chew anymore, they're already housebroken, etc.) and you should point these advantages out to your callers.
In your ad, emphasize your dog's good points: Is he friendly? Housebroken? Well-mannered? Loves kids? Does tricks? Don't keep it a secret but don't exaggerate either. Knowing his name doesn't make him 'well-trained'!
Next, pre-qualify homes by stating any definite requirements: fenced yard, no cats, kids over 10, whatever. Try to state these in a positive way - saying 'Kids over 10 sounds better than 'No kids under 10'. Always state that references are required. This lets people know that you're being selective, want to do what's right for your dog and prepares callers for the barrage of questions they'll be asked.
Never include the phrase "free to good home" in your ad even if it's true. If possible don't put in any reference, to price at all. While "free" will generate a lot of calls, most of them won't be the kind of people you're looking for. Save yourself the trouble of sorting the chaff right from the start. Not specifying a price will give you a lot of latitude. You can easily discourage an unsuitable prospect by telling them the dog costs $700 and just as easily give the dog free to that perfect family if you so desire. Set reasonable adoption fee to help cover your advertising and spay/neuter expense. The key word is "reasonable". Don't expect the new owner to give you the total investment you have in your dog. By the same token, someone who's unwilling to pay a small amount may not be able to afford the dog's future upkeep and medical expenses. A reasonable range might be between $75-150.
Your ad should look something like this:
Call your local newspaper and place your ad. It can take 6-8 weeks to find a good home for your dog, so plan on advertising for several weeks. If you can't afford that, nearly every community has "shopper' publications offering low cost (or even free) advertising. Make flyers with a good photo of your dog and post them on community and grocery store bulletin boards, at vets' offices, pet supply stores, grooming shops, etc. Get the word out among your friends, relatives and co-workers. Be patient, persistent and creative!
Step five: Screen calls
Talking to prospective adopters can be frustrating and time-consuming. To help you along, we've included the adoption applications we use. Make copies and fill in the information as you speak to your callers. It's easy to get people talking about dogs and this information will help you choose the right family. To save time, you can also mail the application to your callers for them to fill out and return to you.
After getting the caller's name and phone number, the first thing you should ask is whether or not they have children and what their ages are. If your dog Isn't good with kids, be up front with the caller right away. The next question should be whether or not they currently have pets, what kind they are and what sex. If your dog isn't good with cats and they have one, forget it! If they already have a dog, make sure it is of the opposite sex. Akitas seldom get along with dogs of the same sex and fights can be serious trouble. If you didn't have your dog spayed or neutered (shame on you!), make sure the caller's other dogs are. Unwanted puppies are a leading cause of an unplanned (one way) trip to the animal shelter! Do not even consider placing your dog with someone who plans to breed it! Our many years of experience provided us with some valuable lessons. One lesson we've learned is people, who want a dog to breed do not necessarily want a family companion. Many times, they breed the dog to take a puppy then turn the mother into the shelter. Is this what you want for your dog?
If the family has no pets or does now, find out if they ever had any an what happened to them. Did they die of old age? Run away?, Get hit by a car? Did they have to 'get rid of it' because of a behavior problem or because they moved to a new home? The answer will give you an idea of what the future may hold for your dog. Stay away from anyone who's had quite a few dogs in a relatively short period of time. Your dog probably won't stay with them long either.
Does the family own their own home or rent? If they rent or live in a condo, does the landlord or condo association approve? Get the landlord's or condo association's phone number and call to check for sure. Do they have a fence? How tall is it and what is it made out of? Get their address and check it out. Do they really live there, is there really a fence and is the neighborhood the kind you feel comfortable in? Would the dog be easily stolen or injured by neighbors?
Has the caller had a dog before? How much do they know about the breed? Find out what kind of dog 'personality' they're looking for. Many people don't have the slightest idea what your breed is all about and may not like it's temperament and characteristics. Find out what they expect from a dog and if their expectations don't match your dog's nature, the home won't work. If they're inexperienced or have never owned a dog before, are they willing to accept your advice on handling and care. Are you prepared to educate them?
References: Get the phone number of their vet (if they've had pets before) and two other personal references. Call them! Explain to the vet and the references that John Doe is interested in adopting your dog, that you love your dog and want to make sure John Doe will give it a good home. Ask the vet whether the former pets were given annual vaccinations and heartworm preventative. Were they in good condition and well-groomed? What happened to their past pets - died of old age, hit by car, etc.? How long have they known this person? Does the person actually know your caller? If they were placing a pet, would they feel comfortable giving it to this person? You may get different answers than you expect either investigate the caller further or scratch them off your list.
Step six: In person interview
Most of your callers won't get past your telephone interview. Once you've chosen a family (or families) that you feel are good candidates, you can make an appointment with them to see the dog. Actually, two appointments are in order: one at your home and one at theirs. Going to their home lets you see whether your dog will do well there. It also gives you an opportunity to call off the adoption and take the dog back home with you if things aren't as represented. If you think there'll be problems or if you just get a bad feeling about the whole thing.
If they already have a dog, make plans to introduce the dogs on "neutral" territory, like a park. Most dogs resent meeting a strange dog at home and may show hostility or even fight.
If the family has children, ask them to bring them along to your home. You need to see how the dog will react to them and how the children treat the dog. Some allowance should be made for kids' natural enthusiasm but if these children are undisciplined or disrespectful to your dog and not kept in hand by their parents, you're asking for trouble!
Do you like these people? Are you comfortable having them as guests in your home? Would they make good friends? If not, don't give them your dog. Trust your instincts. If something about them doesn't seem quite right, even if you can't explain what it is, don't take a chance on your dog's future. Wait for another family!
If you're not sure about someone, call us. We'll be happy to help you with your decision.
The last step: Saying good-bye
Congratulations! You've finally found a great new home for your dog. We know It wasn't easy. After all the soul-searching, preparations, advertising and interviews, your dog is ready to go to his new family. Set aside a special time for you and your dog to take a last walk together. We know you'll cry, too. Do it now, in private, with him, so you're clear-headed when he has to leave. He may be confused about being left with strangers and you don't want your emotions to upset him further.
After both home interviews are over, give the new family a day or two to decide whether or not they really want to adopt your dog. You want to make sure they understand the commitment they're making. While they're deciding, get a package ready to send along with your dog. This package should include:
The are a few more things you need to explain to the new family before they take your dog home. The average dog has an I.Q. level approximating a human child at age 7 years. This means the dog has an awareness few of us ever consider. To ease the dog's transition into a new home, the adopting family should understand this Intelligent animal will be visibly upset and confused. Even a well-housebroken dog may have an accident during the first day In his new home. The dog will go through an adjustment period as he gets to know his new family, learns new rules and even mourns the loss of his "old" family. Most dogs adjust within the first few days, others can take longer. During this time, the new family should stick to the dog's old schedule as much as possible and avoid forcing the dog to do anything unpleasant - taking a bath, obedience training, meeting too many strangers at once, etc. until he's had a chance to settle in a bit. Have them take things easy at first and give the dog time to bond to them.
Have the new family sign an adoption agreement with a waiver of liability. The adoption agreement will help to protect the dog and the waiver of liability helps to protect -you-. You should use the waiver even if your dog has never bitten anyone. You don't have a crystal ball to predict what your dog might do in the future. Remember - a waiver of liability will -not- protect you if you have misrepresented the dog to his new owners. Keep a copy in your records.
Make sure the new family understands that they should contact you if the adoption doesn't work out. Let them know you'd like to keep in touch and will call them in a few days to see how things are going. Tell them to call you if they have questions or problems. Be willing to take the dog back home if things don't work out the way you both expected. Keep their address and phone number on file and ask them to notify you if they move. Make sure they have our phone number. We're always there to provide help and advice.
Purebred Rescue
Purebred Rescue helps to find new homes for dogs. Because of the overwhelming numbers of dogs in shelters, many rescue groups can no longer accept dogs given up by their owners. Purebred Rescue can still help you by including your dog in their public listings of dogs available for adoption. You, as owner, are still expected to do the majority of the work to and your dog a good home and, keep the dog with you until it is placed. Most rescue groups have requirements to be met before your dog can be listed:
Dogs that are granted listing privileges stay with their owners while Rescue and the owner look for new homes through advertising and special events. Suitable applicants will be referred to for further screening. Sometimes a dog can be placed quickly but it usually takes at least 4-8 weeks to find the right family. A donation for this service, while not required, is appreciated to help cover advertising, postage, & telephone expenses.
If your dog absolutely cannot stay with you any longer and you have done all you can to find him a home, he may be eligible for a Rescue "foster home" if space is available. Donations to help pay for your dog's care while in a foster home are usually expected. Please understand that although Rescue volunteers love all animals and especially the dog, they're human beings with limitations. They can't work miracles and they can't always help every dog. There are just too many of them and not enough good homes to go around.
Help Stop US Birthrate of 5,500 Pets per hour
Every hour in the United States, more than 2,000 dogs and 3,500 cats are born, compared to 415 humans. The yearly statistics include more than 17 million dogs and 30 million cats. Add these animals to an existing pet population of 54 million dogs and 56 million cats and the total exceeds one billion!
Earlier puberty, multiple births and briefer pregnancies make dogs and cats far more prolific than humans.
Animal care and control agencies do their best to find loving, responsible owners for as many pets as possible, but there are simply not enough homes for all these animals.
American Humane estimates more than 15 million healthy, friendly dogs and. will be euthanized this year simply because they are "unwanted".
You can save lives and help solve the pet overpopulation tragedy by neutering or spaying your pet. This will reduce the number of dogs and cats being euthanized by reducing the number of pets being born.
Let Us Be Honest
There's been a lot of talk lately about taking responsibility for our actions, being accountable for our decisions and finding those lost values so important to our society. Because we take these words seriously, we feel an obligation to you and your dog to be painfully honest. We ask your indulgence for a moment. Please read on. If you ever had a dog "put to sleep," because of age, illness, or even behavior, chances are the procedure was conducted by your veterinarian, someone known to the dog. In the presence of a family member, or a compassionate health tech the dog went to sleep, then died a quiet death with dignity. as it should be. The atmosphere was not fraught with apprehension, fear or strange odors. The presence of someone known to the dog encouraged trust and a sense of security; it made a difference between a humane death and one not quite humane.
In the stressful environment of animal shelters, it is not the lethal injection the dogs fight but the body language of the people who have been forced to kill too many times. In the presence of detached strangers, surrounded by the odors of disinfectant and death, listening to the sounds of the dying animals then held in a freezer until the disposal truck arrives to load the bodies. Your dog's new home will be at the rendering plant. However, death by lethal injection is still the most benevolent means of killing unwanted, abandoned animals. When a Chamber is used (many shelters and humane societies continue to use the killing machine to lessen emotional stress on human workers), your dog is killed by inhaling a lethal gas. The gas must reach a certain concentration in the lungs before it can be effective which takes time. Anxiety and fear are triggered by:
Puppies and neonatal animals are resistant to all inhalants and take a long time to die in Chambers. Puppies of one week of age have survived in Chambers for as long as 14 minutes. The Chamber is a very impersonal metal box with different forms of gas available to be pumped inside as killing agents. According to a January 1993 report from the AVMA Panel on Euthanasia, all of the following gases are in use and are legal:
Carbon Dioxide: Odorless and heavier than air, it takes 1-2 minutes for a dog to reach a state of unconsciousness. The advantages are it's cheap, nonflammable and kills. The disadvantage of using this gas is because it is heavier than air, if the Chamber is not properly filled, tall and/or climbing dogs can avoid the gas and survive. 'This appears to be very stressful to the animals." They must be killed all over again but second time around they know what is coming.
Nitrogen (N2), Argon (Ar): These gases are Odorless, nonflammable and are effective in killing. In studies using N2 at a 98.5% concentration, dogs became unconscious within 76 seconds. However, all dogs hyperventilated until they reached unconsciousness. While in an unconscious state, the dogs vocalized, gasped, convulsed and had muscular tremors. They were left in the Chamber for 5 minutes and all dogs died. Advantages: Both gases are easily available. Disadvantages: It is distressful in some species.
Carbon Monoxide: Colorless, odorless, it combines with hemoglobin and prevents the red cells from taking on oxygen, causing death by suffocation. Since we cannot ask the dogs what they felt when inhaling this gas, the report lists the human symptoms: headache, dizziness, weakness in the early stages. As the oxygen is decreased in the red cells, the human felt ringing of the cars, loss of vision, nausea, progressive depression, confusion and collapse. Convulsions and muscular spasms accompany unconsciousness. In killing animals with carbon monoxide, the AVMA suggests a well lit Chamber with view ports to watch to be certain the animals are dying.
Another means of killing dogs in some areas is electrocution with alternating current. The electrocution causes cardiac fibrillation which induces death after 10-30 seconds. It is recommended the animal be unconscious before electrocution because of "violent extension and stiffening of the limbs, head and neck." However, the two-step process of producing a state of unconsciousness before electrocution takes more time and money. Straight electrocution is preferred.
Ahhh. but you believe your dog will be adopted from that shelter - you are taking an awful chance by assuming a home waits for your dog. You were that home! You made a commitment to that dog when you took the best years of its life. Now. what are you giving in return? Please, think about what you are doing, what you are teaching your children.
This Is A Leash
It is the best birth control device, preventing random mating, and unwanted puppies.
It is the best way to keep your dog safe, restraining your pet from darting into traffic, preventing death, pain and veterinary bills.
It is the best good neighbor policy maker, keeping your pet from trespassing, attacking other animals, becoming a neighborhood nuisance or violating community leash laws. It also prevents your pet from inflicting injuries on children and adults. It prevents your insurance company from dropping your homeowners insurance because of your pet.
It is the best identification service, with a current dog license and name tag attached to the collar, it will help reunite you both should your pet get lost.
It is the best wildlife and environmental protection, keeping your pet from harassing our Wildlife, destroying irreplaceable plants, or killing expensive livestock, by itself or as part of a wild dog pack.
It is the best way to develop an affectionate pet, as the cord connecting you together encourages a unique bonding between you and your dog.
It is also the best crime prevention device, because when this leash is not in use, your pet will be at home, protecting your home and family.
It is an important demonstration to the public, confirming that dog owners can be responsible people with an equal concern for the community and its residents.